Day 10 - Mamallaparum

Well the child stopped crying and we all got some sleep. The carriage was quite warm so the provided sheet and blanket were sufficient for sleep. Before we knew it the time was approaching 6:45am and the train was pulling into Chennai station. With suitcases and backpacks we marched to the station entrance where our next driver was waiting to take us down to Mamallaparum, about 90 minutes south of Chennai. Chennai was very busy and very muggy. Most of the 90 minutes travel time was spent getting out of the city. Chennai is on the Bay of Bengal so, once out of the traffic congestion the driver stopped by the beach where we strolled down to the water's edge. The beach was jam-packed with long, narrow fishing boats all waiting for the next change in tide, no doubt, so they could go back out across the breakers to ply their trade. Unfortunately, the beach was just as jam-packed with litter. No pristine Australian beaches here.

Before too long we arrived in Mamallaparum, a little village (70,000) on the coast. It was really nice to be in a small town for a change. The single main street is still busy, there are still lots of people around and stray dogs roaming and cattle rummaging but it all  more peaceful, in relative terms. Upon arrival at the very nice resort-style hotel (ie: vegetation, ponds, verandahs and a swimming pool) we enjoyed a filling breakfast (it was only just past 9:00am) then checked out our digs to where our bags had been delivered.

Later in the morning we took a stroll down to the beach with most of the group. Lots of vendors of all sorts of merchandise along the way. The beach was very busy this morning. A group of some sort (perhaps a particular Hindu sect 'cos they were all dressed in red and yellow) were down there enjoying the warm breeze and dip in the Bay of Bengal. Some were taking a horse ride across the sand. The kids were loving the little breakers near the shore, like all kids do. Took a few snaps and then headed back towards the centre of the village. On our return we stopped to but an "Akubra-like" leather hat for Alan from California. He'd been eyeing off mine since day one of the tour so we got him his own for the huge cost of 130 rupees (AUD$2.60). I presented it to him that evening when the group gathered prior to dinner. He was stoked. It didn't fit very well but it's the thought that counts!

Across from the hotel was a tailor who made the ladies wear that Kerry had been looking for so we popped in to try look at some things. Kerry had a great time choosing fabrics, colours and styles. The tailor was very helpful and patient. Me, I found the "husband's chair" and offered my support and encouragement from there! I could pick up the wi-fi from our hotel across the street so that helped keep entertained also. In the end Kerry chose some garments, the tailor took her measurements and we left him to do his handiwork. Kerry went back to the hotel room for a rest and I went for a swim. The water was well chlorinated so I had no concerns diving into the lovely, cool water.

Both refreshed, we met the group in reception at 3:00pm for a tour of a nearby ancient temple precinct, literally out the back of the hotel. The temples were from the the 7th century AD, carved out of the granite rock upon which they stood. The centerpiece was a huge bass-relief carving on a single granite monolith 100m long and 20m high. Elephants, tigers, lions and gods adorned the rock-face. In places, the rock had been carved out into a cavern with more carvings in there, "supported" by tall, carved  columns. The people who created this wonder of human engineering were overthrown by an invading force at some later stage so they all fled across the sea to what is now Cambodia. Consequently, the temples at places like Angkor Wat bear a strong resemblance to these temples. One of the temples is right by the sea. When the 2004 tsunami impacted this region the receding water (which happens just before a tsunami strikes)  revealed six other temples that had been long lost to the sea.

Kerry and I went back to the tailor for a final fitting and some adjustments, picked up the finished product and then joined the group for a walk down to a roof-top seaside restaurant. The breeze was really blowing down there on that rooftop which mad for some interesting hair outcomes for the ladies. After a very nice meal, we both had calamari but done differently, we strolled back home with the young girls, stopping here and there to look at the wares of the various traders along the way.

Day 9 - More temples, more Mysore

The day started relatively early and saw us boarding the bus out to visit a non-active temple 45 minutes  from central Mysore. The Keshava Temple at Somnathpur was built in the 12th century. It is built entirely of soapstone, local to the area. Soapstone is very soft when first mined so the temple is covered in the most intricate carving uf everything from Hindu deities, to elephants, tigers, swans, fish and on and on. Without a word of exaggeration there is not one square inch that is not carved with something. The temple became an inactive temple only 100 years after its 68 build when it was raided by the Muslims and parts of it destroyed. Hindu law says that if a temple is damaged it can no longer be used for worship. The structure was a delight to behold! Once again, I find myself in awe of the designers and builders of ancient structures.

The bus pulled in back at the hotel just after 11.00am. We noi had the rest of the afternoon to ourselves.  Since we had missed the Palace the day before our plan was to rectify that and the visit the nearby Devraja market. We stopped for a coffee at a local coffee stand and while there enjoying it the "owner" of the stall engaged us in conversation with the standard opening line, "Where you from?" Ah! Australia. I have a brother in Melbourne!..... or something similar. Any way he advised us that the Palace did not open until 2:00pm so instead we should visit the "old market" – the other market is just for tourists! There we could see hope incense sticks are made. Knowing what was going on, we jumped in a conveniently located tuk-tuk nevertheless and set off for an adventure. The "old market" was interesting and quite genuinely for locals, not tourists. After a 10 minute stroll our patient tuk-tuk driver took us to a little doorway where a woman was indeed making incense sticks. A young man came out to explain the process and before long we were in an adjoining room learning all about the essential oils he sold. To cut a long story short we ended up buying some of his product. Total cost less than AUDS$50.00. Hopefully it is genuine and hopefully we'll get it back into the country when we return.

Despite his insistence that he take us next to a silk store, our driver took us to the Mysore Palace, but only after I asked Kerry to hop out of the tuk-tuk. The Palace is quite magnificent and very, very large. I don't know much about its history but I'll find out to satisfy my own curiosity. The grounds surrounding it are huge, to match the size of the building. Gold and silver, exotic tiles and artifacts are everywhere. We spent about an hour following the prescribed pathway through the building and then out into the grounds to view the Palace from a distance. It was certainly worth the 100 rupee (AUD$2.00) entry fee for each of us. In need if some cash, we headed on foot to the hotel, stopping for a coconut water along the way, and then to an ATM just up the road. Finances sorted, we got a tuk-tuk to the Devraja Market (despite the advice received earlier in the day). This market was jumping and lively and noisy and colorful – all to the max! Most of the produce being sold was flowers, fruit and veg and spices. There were also some stores that sold hardware items, mostly related to cooking but also silks and sarees. Tourist market or not, it was still a fun place to spend an hour or so of our afternoon.

Getting tired, we took a tuk-tuk back to the hotel to make our final preparations for our departure this evening. At 6:00pm we boarded the bus and headed out to the suburbs for a Biriyani meal in the home of a local family. We all crammed into the tiny front room of his tiny home while he served a lovely meals that he and his wife had prepared. It was quite a unique experience, spending time in the front room of this Muslim gentleman's home.

After dinner, our next stop was the Mysore railway station for tonight we have and overnight journey toi Chennai. For the princely sum of 100 rupees (AUD$2.00) a porter carried Kerry's suitcase uo and down the stair and along the long platform all the way to her berth on the train. We all settled into our little bunk beds after stowing our luggage where ever we could find a hole. I'm on the top bunk of one compartment while Kerry has negotiated the bottom bunk of the adjacent compartment with the lovely Trudy from Belfast. She's assured me she'll look after Kerry, which I know she will. I'm sitting in my bunk writing as the train slowly makes its way to Chennai. I'm pretty tired and should be able to get a good night's sleep, despite my cramped and precarious position, if that baby stops crying!!