Day 5 - Kochi to Coonoor

Up early this morning at 6:00am for breakfast and a 7:00am departure from Kochi. Our Tour Leader had organised the tuk-tuk convoy, the hotel staff loaded them with out bags and we were off to the Kochi railway station at Ernakulam. We were about to experience our first train ride on the almost legendary Indian railway network. At about 8:15am our train pulled into the station – boy, was it loooonnngg! Through luck (but probably because of good planning on our Tour Guide's part) our assigned carriage stopped right where the group was standing. We received our seat assignments, boarded the train with all our luggage and we were off. Traveling in style, we were in an air-conditioned carriage! Kerry and I were assigned seats in non-adjacent compartments. Not a drama at all as we'd begun to establish good relationships with everyone in the small group so it was good to have the opportunity to develop them.

Each carriage has about six or so distinct, but open, compartments. Each compartment has two, roomy and comfortable three-person bench seats facing each other. The compartment seating can be converted into a sleeper compartment with a little adjustment of the bench seats. Some of the group took advantage of that and took a nap during the journey, including Kerry.

Our journey was to last five hours, taking us to the town of Coimbatore. The train slowly trundled along the track, stopping at stations here and there. I took advantage of this and spent some time hanging out the carriage door to get some photos and to get away from the super-efficient air-conditioning!

We were met at the station in Coimbatore by Clement and his 15-seat bus. From there we headed to a local restaurant for a quick lunch. Kerry and I had a bread that was blown up like a balloon and served with a chutney and something else, sort of a white, grainy paste. Don't know what any of it was called but it was delicious. Along with two bottles of water and two cold lime sodas we parted with 282 rupees or about AUD$5.60. The traffic and the noise and the ever-present population were no different in this town. We're quickly learning that Kochi was just the norm in this Country. 

Clement skillfully wound his way through the traffic and before long we reached the edge of town and headed for the Western Ghats and Coonoor. During the course of the day we would rise from sea-level up to 1600m with most of it happening in the last two hours of travel. A quick pit stop was made just before the climb started for a comfort stop and a chance to replace our shop-bought disposable plastic bottle with reusable ones. Disposable plastic is banned from the environmentally fragile and significant area we were about to enter – experience showed further down the road that this is a nice sentiment, but that's all. Up the steep and winding mountain road went our little bus, through the never ending traffic and road side stalls. We were now being accompanied by monkeys all the way along our journey, there numbers increasing the higher we went. Saw plenty of near misses between cars and trucks and buses on the way up. If a driver sees half a chance to get past the vehicle in front he will take that chance. Sometimes he runs out of runway much sooner that expected, usually because a huge truck has appeared from around the blind corner! Clement was as guilty of this as the next driver.

After a long drive we finally made it to the hill-top town of Coonoor. This is at the centre of the tea industry in the Nilgris mountains of the Western Ghats – a range that runs down much of the western coast of India. Coonoor and neighboring Ootacamund are the towns that sprung up when the British East India Company decided to break the monopoly that China had on tea growing and stat growing there own – but more about that tomorrow. 

Just as the day was ending we arrived at our destination – the Tiger Hill Cottage. Our room has a balcony with sweeping views of the endless tea gardens below with little tea plantation settlements dotted across the hillsides. Tomorrow we'll get a closer look at the tea industry and all that it means tio this community.

Day 4 - Touring Kochi

Today was the first day of organised activities which started with a walk with the group to the Dutch Palace. On the way we along a section of a road where the locals were of the worship at a couple of temples along there. They were out in their "Sunday best" for the occasion, accompanied by an elephant, also dressed in his Sunday best". At the palace we took a guided tour. It was built by the Portuguese in the 16th century.  The Portuguese were later displaced by the Dutch so it began known as the Dutch Palace. As palaces go it's more like a country house than a palace. Nevertheless, it was the home of the King of Kochi for many centuries thereafter. The walls are covered with paintings of all the kings over the ages. The most interesting part of the tour was the brief background we received into the Hindu religion and the gods, therein.

Following the tour we walked along the same path we did yesterday down to Jew Town. I think most of the tour group had been already so care factor was low. The tour leader found a nearby tuk-tuk rank and we headed over to the Fort Kochi district. This was our first ride in this sort of vehicle. It's great fun whizzing around the labyrinth that is Kochi, eventually popping up near Fort Kochi, by the Arabian Sea. We visited the first Christian church built in India - also built in the 16th century. It was once the burial place (they moved him later on) of the famous navigator, Vasco de Gama. It was converted from a Catholic church to an Anglican church when the British booted out the Spanish a couple of centuries later.

A short stroll away is the Arabian Sea. Lots of big ships anchored in the water. The main attraction here is the famous Chinese fishing nets called that because they're based on a Chinese design not because they're operated by Chinese fishermen. Said to have been in operation for more than 400 years and still in operation (literally) as we viewed them. Imagine something akin to a pair of the giant cranes used to build tall building today, sitting on the end of a peir, with a huge net suspended between them. The net is lowered into the water for five minutes and then drawn up using men on ropes and huge rock for counter-balancers. The net is lowered to the pier and the men collect the fish – if the birds don't get them first! From here we found a small cafe for lunch and enjoyed a tea from Darjeeling – in a real tea-pot with real tea. The cafe was called Teapots, so I would have been disappointed in anything less.

Kerry and I thought we'd walk back to the hotel se we set set off. Didn't take long before we got lost in what I reckon was an "affluent" little enclave of Kochi. So we flagged down the next tuk-tuk, and agreed on a 100 Rupee fare (AUD$2.00) and made it back to the hotel for a short rest.

In the evening we attended a traditional Kerala dance demonstration call Kathakalli. In a very small hall three men and three percussionists told a story from Hindu mythology. The men were elaborately face-painted and dressed and the story was told through facial expression, hand and body movement. It takes six years study to learn this form of dance and four years to learn the accompanying singing and percussion pieces.

With the group we found a nearby restaurant, enjoyed a good meal and then the tuk-tuk convoy headed back to the hotel to prepare for an early start tomorrow.

Day 3 - Kochi

I had quite a restless night's sleep – still winding down from the long flight and still processing what we'd seen on the drive into Kochi. To be honest, I was beginning to wonder whether we'd made the right decision to come to India. Was India the right sort of country for us? Was this going to be a really long and un-enjoyable holiday? One thing is for sure. We had thought we wanted a trip very different to those we'd done in the past. Well everything was pointing to that certianly being the case. We just have to give ourselves a little time to adjust, I reckon.

Having no plans at all, we stayed in our room until 9:30am. The hotel is quite an oasis in the middle of the Kochi urban jungle. Our room is very, very large with a wooden floor, a very high wooden ceiling with exposed beams, thick white-washed walls, a huge corner bathroom/toilet, a very large high bed and air-conditioning!! The room is on the second floor accessed by a wide corridor, exposed to the elements in some places. The whole hotel has a very "colonial" feel to it. The large common/dining room sports a lot of teak in the ceiling, walls and furniture. There's even a pool outside the patio.

We dressed and headed off into the wilds of Kochi. Even though the breakfast bar had finished more than an hour ago the lovely girl at reception (nothing more than a table and chair next to the front door!) offered to make us some toast and tea which really hit the spot! She gave a bottle of water too.

Our one mission for the day was to get some cash in our pocket. I have an app which claims to know where every ATM in the world is. The app said there was one 800m down the road – State Bank of India. We haven't bought any Indian rupee with us, planning to just get it from ATMs on an as-needs basis. I'd changed AUD$20.00 at the airport early this morning just to get us started. So off we went to find the ATM.

By 10:30am our little road was jam-packed with people, scooters, tuk-tuks, trucks, buses and the occasional car. It was nothing short of chaotic. Tiny little shop fronts selling or sorts things, buildings in various states or repair and disrepair, construction or deconstruction, rubble and rubbish strewn everywhere, goats, dogs and cats. The street was abuzz with action and excitement. It was hot and hazy and noisy. But, despite how we felt last night, all of this actually helped our anxiety and trepidation wash away in just 800m! It was fantastic!

Well we found the ATM, but it was broken, so we retraced our steps and then headed down Bazar Rd. We stopped at a very nice looking hotel, thinking they might have an ATM inside. They didn't but directed us to a bank further down the road. Our Commbank travel card failed in the ATM so I tried my normal CBA MasterCard. That one worked and I got out 5000 rupees (about AUD$100). We passed by the Dutch Palace (we're going there tomorrow) and headed to the old Jewish section. As is the case in many places across the world a congregation of Jews had grown in Kochi over the last few centuries, fleeing persecution in their homelands. There aren't any Jews left anymore, having left when the state of Israel was formed.

Like a bee to a honey pot, Kerry was attracted by all the colour and light in the clothing shops so in we went. She emerged with a couple of pairs of very bright trousers, tried on a few tops and also bought a couple of pairs of nice silver earrings. Synagogue Lane is the tourist precinct of this part of Kochi (called Mattancherry, incidentally). It's been HEAVILY sanitised. Not a single piece of rubbish or rubble, dog, cat or tuk-tuk in sight. Everything is nice and clean and orderly. It could be any other similar tourist place anywhere in the world. Outside of Synagogue Lane, you could only be in India!

After a few hours we headed back to the hotel, feeling much happier about our decision to travel here. Now we had the parameters set in our brains it's going to be a great trip. At 6:00pm we have an appointment at the hotel to meet the tour leader and the rest of the group so we took the opportunity for a bit of a rest beforehand.

6:00pm came by so we ventured into the hotel dining room. There we met the rest of the group, some of whom I recognised from our wanderings earlier in the day – white folks tend to stand out in India! For the record they are Dodie and Chris from San Luis Obispo, Alan and Chris also from San Luis Obispo, Mark and Tracy from Oxford, Trudy from Belfast, Maggie from Dublin (via Durban), Carol from Virginia, Carla from Chile (via Brunswick East) and Kerry and Greg from Bendigo. Twelve people in all, a really good sized group and a good cross section of age, life stories. I reckon we'll all get on very well. Our Tour Leader is Pooja, a young and enthusiastic girl who was once a corporate lawyer but had a change of direction.

After the meeting we all headed out in a convoy of tuk-tuks to a nearby restaurant for dinner and a chance to get to know each other a little more. It's gonna be a great trip!

Day 2 - Melbourne to Kochi

A quick breakfast at the hotel and we were off across Spencer St to the Skybus. We'd purchased our return tickets online the night before. Kerry's first purchase as a Victorian Senior!! The bus goes every 15 minutes so we were on the road pretty much straight away and out at Tullamarine 30 minutes later.

The first port of call was to the Malaysia Airlines desk to complete check-in. They weren't open yet so we grabbed a coffee and waited a short time. As I had anticipated, there were problems with the records they had in their computer system about the check-in baggage we were going to load in the plane. Their computer system said that we had no allowance for any at all. Expecting this to happen was why we dropped into Travelcentre Bendigo yesterday on the way to the station. To cut t along story very short, after much delay, the engagement of the senior on-duty check-in manager and the production of evidence provided by Bendigo Travelcentre our bags finally disappeared down the conveyor belt into the bowels of Melbourne Airport. Fingers crossed ,they'll appear from the bowels for Kochi Airport in about 15 hours time! Made it through customs – they were concerned mostly about the handkerchief in my pocket and a roll of sports-tape in Kerry's backpack – and then waited for out 14:10 flight, all done with lots of spare time. When you're anticipating battles with humans and machines the last thing you want is to have time fighting against you too.

The flight left on time and we were soon winging our way across our great red land on flight MH148 bound for Kuala Lumpur. The flight was uneventful and long. I normally don't worry about the uber-long flights from Australia to anywhere but this time I was very glad to touchdown in KL and get off the plane.

KL airport is very big but we easily found information about our next flight (a hundred people gazing up at a little screen in the arrivals areas helped) and headed off in the direction of the next terminal. The signage at KL is very clear and very good. Our journey to Terminal M/Gate G10 involved a short internal rail ride and a long walk to the far end of the terminal. Once again, no drama with plenty of time up your sleeve. Grabbed a coffee and then soon after boarding of MH108 started. I failed to follow most of the instructions relating to electronic equipment in carry on baggage, but got through anyway – except for that pesky handkerchief again. So far my titanium collarbone hasn't gone off – yet.

About four hours later we touched down in Kochi – the ride was a bit bumpy, but nothing to cause any concern. So, we readied ourselves for the fun to begin! Getting through Customs for foreigners was a slow process but at least one a had a comfy chair to sit in. The Customs Officers were very patient with all of the tired travelers. We'd had the chance to see a few groups go through ahead of us so when our turn came we were well schooled and breezed through. On to the baggage carousel we went, with some trepidation. You can't believed how happy and relieved we were when we spied our three bags  amongst a lonely dozen or so circling to carousel. Passed by the final pair of Customs officials, who seemed more intent on their private conversation rather than finding dodgy looking travelers (but I suppose they're highly trained professional who can do both things at the same time), and out of the terminal building we went. At just after mid-night there were hundreds of people there waiting to collect their friends, loved-ones and clients. We were the latter, in this case, Travelcentre Bendigo has arranged our transfers for us. Kerry spied a chap holding a card with my name on it (I'd walked straight past him) and soon we were in his car headed for our hotel – the Spice Heritage Hotel in Mattancherry.

Even at that time of night there were people and traffic everywhere. The night was very warm and close and the air was thick with fumes from that traffic  and a whole bunch of other smells I won't even guess at. The driver was very adept at his craft, finding gaps in the traffic that were not open to a mere mortal like myself. Sticking to one's lane of traffic seems to be optional, using one's horn and flashing one's headlights seems to be mandatory. But for good reason. As long as everyone subscribes to the same method of driving, while remaining patient and courteous, it all just works. For my own sense of peace I had the app MAPS.ME running on my phone (it just needs a GPS signal as I'd already downloaded the map of Kochi some time ago). It was comforting to know the driver was going were I expected him to go at each twist and turn of the 45 minute journey.

We arrived at the hotel just after 1:00am to find it's front gate securely locked! My first thought was – now what do we do! Before long, a young chap came down the short driveway and opened up. We checked in and then crashed in bed, exhausted but with our brains still reeling from what we'd seen in the last 60 minutes!

Day 1 - Bendigo to Melbourne

 Here we go!!

Today is Kerry's birthday. Her 60th – no less! And we're celebrating with this massive undertaking – six weeks touring India – the world's most populous country. It'll be full of sounds, sights, smells and cultures we've never witnessed before. I's gonna be very different.

We bade good-bye to Percy, Wilson and Jim. Molly went to the Heathcote Dog Kennels yesterday. Jim is a chap we met for the first time yesterday. He is a friend of Lyn Lindsay's sister who goes about the country-side house-sitting for people like us who are away for a while. He parked his motor-home next to the garage, plugged in the power and he was done. He'll keep and eye on the house, water the garden and feed Percy and Wilson. Percy will be lucky enough to get a walk too.

As is now customary, we walked our bags down to the bus-stop to wait for the No, 54 into Bendigo station. Our bags proved to be a great conversation started amongst to passengers, ourselves and the driver. They were all interested to know where we were going. When we reached Bath Lane we hopped off and went to speak to Leanne at the Travel Agency about a concern I had with the checked-in baggage allowance. Got that sorted, had a coffee and then continued our bus journey up Mitchell St to the station.

The 10:30am train rolled in, picked us up and headed for Melbourne. Tonight we're staying at the Great Southern Hotel in Spencer St. It's just across the road from the more refined Grand Hotel but it's close to the SkyBus terminal. Wandered down to The Crown for quick bite to eat and then back to the hotel to get ready for Kerry's 60th birthday celebrations at the Squire's Loft in the Docklands precinct. There we met with Garry and Jenni, Annemarie and Garry, Michael and Franciose and Emily. Just a small family gathering with Kerry's siblings and Emily. I frequented this establishment regularly as a guest of various IT vendors and I celebrated my last working day in Melbourne here too. After another superb steak we headed back to the hotel to make our final preparations for tomorrow's departure.